Snow-covered gabled roof of a dark house during a heavy snowstorm.

HVAC Repair in Aberdeen, MD

Homes here need heat from October through April and cooling from June through September. If your system quits, tell us what it's doing and a licensed contractor who covers Harford County will get in touch.

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Step 1 of 3: Equipment
An unfinished basement containing a forced-air furnace with metal ductwork, exposed wooden ceiling joists, a hanging Edison bulb, and bare concrete floors.

Eleven months of work a year in Harford County

Your system in Aberdeen only gets a break for about a month. Heat runs October through April, and the cooling switches on by June and stays on through September. That is eleven months of the year when something in your house is either lighting a burner or running a compressor.

Winter nights averaging 26°F mean long, steady heating cycles, and a lot of homes here are heating with electric heat. That means the system is leaning on it night after night through the coldest stretch. Summer afternoons near 85°F put the same kind of load on the compressor, all season. On top of that, Harford County has seen 24 winter storms and 329 damaging wind events over the last ten years, and across Maryland about 11% of households lost power for a full day or more in 2024. A furnace or heat pump that already runs long hours has less room to absorb a hard freeze or a power interruption on top of it.

7 months
October through April, your system heats
4 months
June through September, it cools
26°F
the average winter night it heats against
85°F
the average summer afternoon it cools against
Isometric cutaway illustration of a small house showing a furnace unit connected to ductwork running through the interior and attic, with a chimney on the shingled roof and simple furniture in the rooms.
Your system heats October through April and cools June through September.

NOAA nClimDiv, 1991–2020 normals

Maryland requires HVAC contractors to hold a state license.

The Maryland Board of Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning, and Refrigeration Contractors is the body that tests and licenses HVAC contractors in this state. Passing that license means the state has checked the contractor's qualifications and keeps a record of who holds one. The license belongs to the contractor, not to any single job, so the same license covers a repair on your furnace or your air conditioner without being issued fresh each time.

For a repair on a heating and cooling system, that license is what stands behind the person working on your equipment. It is the state's record that this contractor met the standard the board set, not a guarantee on any one repair. In Maryland, that license is the accountability the work carries.

Sources: Maryland General Assembly · Maryland Department of Labor

Why is my heat not working?
Start with the thermostat. Make sure it is set to heat and the temperature is set above room temperature, since a setting bumped a degree or two can look like a dead system. If the thermostat is fine, check the breaker for the furnace or air handler, since a tripped breaker will stop it cold. Gas furnaces will also shut down if the pilot light or igniter fails, and at 26°F on a winter night here that failure gets noticed fast. If power and thermostat both check out, the problem is inside the unit and needs a contractor to diagnose.
Why is my system running but not cooling the house?
Check the air filter first. A clogged filter blocks airflow across the indoor coil, and when that happens the coil can freeze even though the system keeps running. Look at the outdoor unit too, since leaves or debris packed against it stop it from releasing heat, and on an 85 degree afternoon that alone can keep a house from cooling down. If the filter is clean and the outdoor unit is clear, the system may be low on refrigerant, and that is not something to check or add yourself. A licensed contractor can find the leak and recharge it properly.
What can I check before calling for HVAC repair?
Check the thermostat batteries and settings, since a dead battery or a setting left on the wrong mode causes more no-heat and no-cool calls than people expect. Check the breaker panel for a tripped breaker or blown fuse. Check the air filter and replace it if it is dark or clogged, since restricted airflow is behind a lot of the calls a contractor gets. If the outdoor unit is covered in leaves or debris, clear the area around it. If the system still is not working after that, a licensed contractor can diagnose what is actually wrong.