A two-story suburban house blanketed in snow at night, with one lit upstairs window and bare trees surrounding it.

HVAC Repair in Cambridge, MD

Homes here need heat from October through April and cooling from June through September. If your system quits, tell us what it's doing and a licensed contractor who covers Dorchester County will get in touch.

Tell us about the job

It takes about a minute.

Step 1 of 3: Equipment
A gas furnace and sheet-metal air handler unit installed in an unfinished concrete basement.

Eleven months of work for your system, on the Eastern Shore

Your furnace has one job from October through April, and it does it on nights that average 29°F. That's below freezing, so it runs long and it runs often. The igniter and the burner take the wear, cycling on and off through the cold months, and a weak igniter shows up as a furnace that won't start at all.

Then summer flips the load. June through September, afternoons here average 86°F, and your air conditioner runs hard to keep up. The compressor and the coil carry that heat, and a system pushed all summer will start blowing warm or freezing up if something's worn. Only one month of the year asks nothing of your system.

More than half the homes on the Shore heat with electricity, so when the power goes, the heat goes with it. Dorchester County sees its share of winter storms and damaging wind, and across Maryland, 11 percent of households lost power for a full day or more in 2024. When it comes back on, a furnace or heat pump that was already struggling can fail to restart.

7 months
October through April, your system heats
4 months
June through September, it cools
29°F
the average winter night it heats against
86°F
the average summer afternoon it cools against
Isometric grayscale illustration of a cutaway house showing interior rooms, ceiling ductwork, a flue pipe, and a furnace unit on the left side.
Your system heats October through April and cools June through September.

NOAA nClimDiv, 1991–2020 normals

Maryland requires HVAC contractors to hold a state license.

Maryland tests HVAC contractors through the Board of Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning, and Refrigeration Contractors before it lets them hold a license. The board keeps a record of who passed and who is licensed to do this work in the state. That license belongs to the contractor, not to any single job, so it does not get reissued or re-checked each time a truck shows up.

For a repair on your heating and cooling system, that state license is what stands behind the person doing the work. If gas is part of the system, the connection is the part that matters most, since a bad one is what makes a gas repair dangerous, and Maryland's licensing is what puts a tested, recorded contractor on that job.

Sources: Maryland General Assembly · Maryland Department of Labor

Why is my heat not working?
The most common reason is the thermostat calling for heat but the furnace not responding, which usually comes down to power, gas supply, or ignition. Check the thermostat is set to heat and the temperature is above room temperature. Check the breaker for the furnace and the switch that looks like a light switch near the unit, since that shuts it off for service. If the furnace has a standing pilot, look for the flame. If it uses electronic ignition and the burners never light, that points to the igniter or flame sensor, and a contractor will need to test it.
Why is my system running but not cooling the house?
If air is moving but it is not cold, the problem is usually with the outdoor unit, not the air handler inside. A dirty outdoor coil, a fan that is not spinning, or low refrigerant can all keep the system from removing heat even while it keeps running. Start by checking the outdoor unit for debris, leaves, or grass clippings packed against the coil. If the coil is clear and the fan is running but the air is still warm, that points to a refrigerant issue, which takes a licensed contractor to diagnose and repair.
What can I check before calling for HVAC repair?
Check the thermostat first. Make sure it is set to the right mode, the temperature is set past room temperature, and the batteries are not dead. Next, check the filter. A filter that is clogged with dust restricts airflow enough to cause weak heating, weak cooling, or a system that shuts off on its own. Check the breaker box for a tripped breaker and the power switch near the indoor or outdoor unit. If the outdoor unit is involved, clear away any leaves or debris packed against it. If everything checks out and the system still is not working, that points to something inside the unit that needs a licensed contractor to open it up and diagnose.