HVAC Repair in Hagerstown, MD
Homes here need heat from October through April and cooling from June through August. If your system quits, tell us what it's doing and a licensed contractor who covers Washington County will get in touch.
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Ten months of work a year, in a place that loses power
Your furnace and your air conditioner both earn their keep here. Heat runs October through April, seven months, then the air conditioner takes over for June through August. Only a few weeks a year get to sit idle.
Winter nights average 25°F, cold enough that the furnace cycles on and off most of the night to hold the house steady. Summer afternoons average 85°F, and the air conditioner runs through the heat of the day the same way. More than half the homes here heat with electricity, so when the power goes, the heat goes with it. Washington County has seen 21 winter storms and 148 damaging wind events over the past ten years, and across Maryland, 11 percent of households lost power for a full day or more in 2024. A furnace or air conditioner that comes back on wrong after an outage, or won't come back on at all, is a call worth making.
- 7 months
- October through April, your system heats
- 3 months
- June through August, it cools
- 25°F
- the average winter night it heats against
- 85°F
- the average summer afternoon it cools against
NOAA nClimDiv, 1991–2020 normals
Maryland requires HVAC contractors to hold a state license.
The Maryland Board of Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning, and Refrigeration Contractors tests and licenses the contractor, not the job. That license is tied to the person or company doing the work, so it carries from one repair to the next rather than being issued fresh each time.
For a repair like this, the license is what stands behind the person working on your system. It covers the contractor's standing with the state, not a check on this particular repair once it is done.
Sources: Maryland General Assembly · Maryland Department of Labor
- Why is my heat not working?
- Most of the time it comes down to power, gas, or airflow. Check that the thermostat is set to heat and the temperature is above room temperature, and check the breaker for the furnace or air handler. If you have a gas furnace, look for a light on the control board, a blinking code there usually points to what stopped it. Furnaces on electric heat can trip a breaker on their own if a component inside has failed, so if it trips again after you reset it, stop and let a contractor look at it. With winter nights here averaging 25°F, a furnace that will not start is not something to leave for a few days.
- Why is my system running but not cooling the house?
- The system running but not cooling usually means the air is not carrying heat out of the house the way it should. Start with the filter. A clogged filter chokes the airflow across the indoor coil, and a coil that cannot pull in warm air cannot cool it either. If the filter is clean, check that the outdoor unit is not blocked by leaves, grass clippings, or anything sitting against it. If both look fine and the house still is not cooling, the refrigerant charge or the coil itself may be the problem, and that needs a contractor with gauges to find out.
- What can I check before calling for HVAC repair?
- Check the thermostat first. Make sure it is set to the right mode, the temperature is actually calling for heat or cooling, and the batteries are not dead. Next check the breaker box for a tripped breaker on the furnace, air handler, or outdoor unit. Look at the filter and replace it if it is dirty, since a blocked filter causes problems that look like bigger failures. If the system still is not working after that, a contractor will need to diagnose it directly.